Italy 2024

 Day Five: Pinzolo to Molveno (55 km, ~1000 ft. elevation gain) So I woke up early, as usual, and noted out the window of our nice little place... sunshine?   This was unexpected, so I snatched up my phone (which had actually charged!  For some reason my charger has not been agreeing with the outlets here) and saw that the forecast, which looked pretty grim yesterday, had a very promising window in the rain in the a.m.  So out of bed, quick shower, pack up the stuff, explain the plan to a barely conscious Jen, and I was on the road.  Since Jen has a car for this part of the journey, and can go much faster than I can, we have this kind of flexibility- so why not use it if I have a good reason? So I hit the glorious bike road at around 6 am, and aside from a longing for a cup of coffee-esque beverage, am immediately glad of my decision.  There are only a few puffy clouds in the sky, and some trailing morning mist rising off of the sodden fields and fores...

 Day One- Arrival and Recon Having sadly bid Venice arevederchi, we boarded the "normal" train North to a VERY different area of Italy- The Trentino-Alto Ridge (or South Tyrol Region)  If you are looking at a map, it's basically as far north as you can go in Italy before you enter either Switzerland or Austria.  It couldn't be a whole lot more different than Venice.  For one thing, it goes from being dead flat to being insanely mountainous, with the jagged Dolomite Range right up in your silly face.  It's culturally much different, too.  Sure, Venice has its particular ways, but nobody's going to mistake it for anywhere but Italy.  But Bolzano?  Or should I say Bozen, its German name by which it is more commonly called? An unkind take of Bozen would be it's a very pretty tourist trap.  Thing is, if it's a tourist trap, it's not for idiot Americans to shout in, vomit on, complain about, and otherwise defile.  It's for Swiss and Austrians ...

 Day One: Arrival and Recon This time, we tried the normal "slow" train instead of the high-speed.  I was curious to do because a) you have to pay an annoying "booking fee" to reserve a seat on the high speed train on top of the Eurail Pass b) the timetable said the high speed only saved us half an hour, c) the high speed only goes to the train station on the mainland near Venice, and you have to make a transition to the local anyway.   Turns out, the local is still pretty fast, comfortable, and easy, but it doesn't come with a coffee and a cookie you don't really want.  Or a table.   I dunno, unless it's a long train ride, I am thinking the normal train is fine.   We arrived in Venice no problem, and instantly we were aware we were in a very different city than Bologna.  Definitely fewer porticos, even more leaning towers, WAY more canals, and MUCH narrower streets.  Venice struggles even more than Rome or Florence with the weight ...

 Day 1-  Arrival and Recon So the Bologna area is known for several things- most notably its culinary delights, which include several of the most treasured elements of Italian food culture: Parma ham, Parmigiano Reggiano  (Do NOT say Parmesan Cheese if you know what's good for you), Balsamic Vinegar, and olive oil.  So pretty much everything but pasta.  Also, in nearby Modena, is "motor valley," an industrial center that includes the factories of Ferrari and Lamborghini.   And... porticos!  If you like a covered walkway, and you like it elaborate, Bologna is the town for you!  Why walk down the street with the sun beating down on you?  Why bring an umbrella if it might rain?  Window shop in complete comfort with Porticos!   We arrived in Bologna via yet another slick high-speed train, which whisked us to our destination in comfort and speed (we have GOT to get some of these).   The accommodations, another short-t...

So last we left off, we had triumphantly arrived back in Florence, after a truly magnificent day of biking in perfect weather.  Still, it was nice to get back to Florence, since it's a big city with lots of stuff to see, and thus far we had just scratched the surface. We checked into our accommodation, which I had whimsically booked back in March, mainly due to its outstanding location- a corner room with both huge windows looking out at the Duomo, and perched on the 3rd story overlooking the bustling piazza over which the vast cathedral looms.  Fancy, right?   Well... anyone who knows me knows I can be a frugal man at times, and this hotel, for it's unbelievable locations was in fact a 1-star accommodation.  This meant no AC (other than a fan), Internet down the hall in the common room, a very strange bathroom arrangement where you got a key to a tiny closet with a shower and toilet in it down the hall, place mats in lieu of towels (not very absorbent!), and a ...